Wednesday, October 5, 2022
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4 Current Favorites From Glashütte Unique

Inexperienced is the colour of the 12 months. You realize it, we all know it, and Glashütte Unique actually is aware of it.

Initially printed by Logan Baker on HODINKEE, April tenth 2021


Immediately, we’ve 4 new watches from the German firm touchdown within the HODINKEE Store. Three are inexperienced, and the final attracts on a galvanized blue hue to underscore its hyper-complicated travel-time show. All 4 watches are a number of the latest we’ve seen from the corporate. And we’re excited so as to add them to our number of Glashütte Unique watches accessible within the HODINKEE Store.

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SeaQ 39.5mm Reed Inexperienced Dial In Metal On Bracelet

The Glashütte Unique Sixties Chronograph Annual Version 2021

A couple of years in the past, Glashütte Unique began a brand new custom. It concerned creating one or two watches inside its vintage-inspired Sixties vary, and solely producing them inside that 12 months’s timeframe. This 12 months, the model has crafted a model of its in-house chronograph with a stunning dégradé dial in radiant brilliant inexperienced.

Glashütte Unique is the uncommon watch firm to supply all of its dials in-house, on the manufactory it owns in Pforzheim, Germany. Right here, the model has created an impossibly alluring inexperienced dial with an deliberately distressed floor, that includes a radial sample that casts mild and shadow in an endlessly dazzling method.

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Sixties Chronograph Annual Version 2021

We’re additionally fairly keen on the scale and proportions of this watch, which is totally unabashed when saying itself. At 42mm with no vital bezel, there’s sufficient of that wonderful dial to radiate the daring pop of 1960’s fashion, but additionally sufficient actual property to deal with the massive concentrically-engraved sub-dials. Operating seconds are tracked on the three o’clock place, whereas a 30-minute totalizer travels on the sub0dial at 9 o’clock. Although the arms look like customary batons, there may be really luminescent materials tucked into them, fairly subtly, which, along with the luminescent markers on the hour positions across the dial makes for a helpful watch in low-light circumstances.

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Sixties Chronograph Annual Version 2021

Whereas the funky fashion of this watch could steal the present, the mechanical prowess of this in-house caliber 39-34 chronograph motion is simply as spectacular. Glashütte Unique’s three-quarter plate resounds with confidence and stability. The works under characteristic the swan-neck tremendous adjustment, which provides a little bit of horological muscle and sweetness. Beveled edges, polished metal elements, a skeletonized rotor with 21-carat gold oscillation weight all add as much as unabashed and unmitigated excessive horology. Sure, all of that mechanical prowess in historically excessive German type is offered on the listed value, which we additionally love.


The Glashütte Unique SeaQ 39.5mm Reed Inexperienced Dial

The newest addition to Glashütte Unique’s catalog, the SeaQ collection is the corporate’s revival of the Spezimatic Sort RP TS 200, a dive watch launched in 1969 by the GUB. Introduced in 2019 for the classic mannequin’s fiftieth anniversary and meant to function the primary entry in a broader assortment of sport watches beneath the brand new Spezialist banner, the SeaQ (the Q stands for high quality) has shortly turn into a critical contender within the luxurious dive watch class. Good for 2021, the brand new “Reed Inexperienced” dial variant was revealed earlier this 12 months, with a chrome steel bracelet.

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SeaQ 39.5mm Reed Inexperienced Dial In Metal On Bracelet

A pores and skin diver by way of and thru, the SeaQ is examined to realize each ISO 6425 and DIN 8306 diving requirements. What ought to entice much more folks, nevertheless, is its sweet-spot dimension of 39.5mm × 12.50mm that ought to match an enormous number of wrists. Aesthetically, the SeaQ feels each new and acquainted, a testomony to the unique design. The mixture of sword, arrow, and lollipop arms with the funky Arabic even numerals, the ceramic bezel insert that exactly matches the colour of the galvanized black and blue dials, and the half-barrel profile of the case all deliver out a component that’s keenly impressed by classic design however totally contemporary by way of our modern lens.

The Glashütte Unique PanoMaticLunar Forest Inexperienced Dial

Simply recognizable for its off-centered timekeeping shows and asymmetrical design, the Pano collection was first launched by Glashütte Unique in 2001. In 2003, the PanoMaticLunar joined the early Pano collection, and the remainder is historical past. Though the design is purposefully off-balanced, there’s one thing about the way in which the slight moon-phase aperture stabilizes the dial orientation and supplies equal weight reverse the overlapping timekeeping sub-dials.

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PanoMaticLunar Forest Inexperienced Dial In Metal On Leather-based Strap

The PanoMaticLunar’s 40mm chrome steel case, its accompanying affordable value, and its refined but impactful lack of gold (or actually any heat colours), make the chrome steel PanoMaticLunar a fairly uncommon breed amongst costume watches. Even the moon and stars are rendered in silver, fairly than the everyday gilt accents regularly deployed on moon-phase discs, a selection which ends up in a wholeness of design that feels fairly elevated.

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PanoMaticLunar Forest Inexperienced Dial In Metal On Leather-based Strap

Behind the clear caseback window is one in every of Germany’s greatest completed in-house actions, caliber 90-02. Whereas this motion produces exceptionally exact timekeeping, it’s the design and ending which have stolen our hearts. The massive three-quarter plate is hand-engraved, as is the very good-looking mustache-style stability bridge. A “duplex-swan-neck” regulator supplies the tremendous adjustment, whereas the eccentrically mounted skeletonized rotor with its 21-carat gold oscillation weight retains the watch wound autonomously. Moreover, metal surfaces are brightly polished, screws are blued, and edges are bevelled, the latter a characteristic missing on many comparably priced watches, and quite a lot of exceedingly costly ones.


The Glashütte Unique Senator Cosmopolite Midnight Blue Dial

Our lone blue-dial addition to the HODINKEE Store right this moment, the Glashütte Unique Senator Cosmopolite, is an underrated beast of a timepiece. The truth is, we’d go as far as to say it’s one of the advanced and intriguing journey watches accessible right this moment – bar none.

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Senator Cosmopolite Midnight Blue Dial In Metal On Bracelet

Although the Cosmopolite doesn’t draw undue consideration to itself, a better investigation of the dial reveals that there’s a critical machine under. Your native time is tracked by way of the centrally-mounted foremost arms, whereas house time is stored steadily on the massive sub-dial on the 12-o’clock place, together with a power-reserve gauge and a Daylight Financial savings indicator. Operating seconds are displayed clearly on the massive sub-dial at six o’clock, and at 9 o’clock is an AM/PM indicator that’s sync’d with the house time for these usually complicated journeys throughout the worldwide date line. A big date show is thoughtfully aligned with the crown at  4 o’clock, and at eight o’clock we discover the Cosmopolite’s most intriguing problems: a full-suite of standardized hourly time zones plus changes for half-hour and quarter-hour distinction for these locations world wide that don’t embrace UTC. If that weren’t sufficient, this watch can even account for Summer season/Normal (a.ok.a. Daylight Saving) time.

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Senator Cosmopolite Midnight Blue Dial In Metal On Bracelet

All of those problems are pushed by a gorgeously completed in-house motion, the Calibre 89-02. From the polished and blued screws to the beveled edges and extremely polished metal elements, this motion begs you to seize a loupe magnifier and spend a while exploring the equipment. The three-quarter plate, with its striped ending, creates a stable mounting floor for the sophisticated works under, whereas the skeletonized off-center rotor with a 21-carat gold oscillating weight creates notable dynamism. Energy reserve is a formidable 72-hours, and that’s on the trade customary beat fee of 28,800vph. All advised, it is a critical piece of horology, and as we stated already, supplied at an unimaginable value, as is typical of Glashütte Unique.

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Senator Cosmopolite Midnight Blue Dial In Metal On Bracelet

We love how the Cosmopolite from Glashütte Unique brings the complexity and nuance of the world’s time zones onto the wrist with a quiet confidence. The newest addition of the watch pairs a midnight blue dial with a three-link chrome steel bracelet for the last word in sporty – and worldly – class.

You’ll be able to uncover the entire newest Glashütte Unique releases within the HODINKEE Store.



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