BY ERIK SLAVEN
Built-in sports activities watches are among the many most sought-after luxurious fashions at the moment, fueled by heavyweights just like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Patek Philippe Nautilus and Piaget Polo. These icons proceed to set the usual and keep a powerful desirability for the fashion, so manufacturers are capitalizing with extra reasonably priced choices. Fashions just like the Bell & Ross BR05 have a luxurious vibe and (comparatively) attainable worth, whereas the brand new Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 is an reasonably priced collection that’s confirmed to be wildly widespread. Japanese juggernaut Citizen already has a dear built-in sports activities watch, “The Citizen,” that carries the in-house Caliber 0200 computerized designed in collaboration with La Joux-Perret. It additionally lately launched the Tsuyosa Computerized for a unique clientele with a worth that’s onerous to imagine.
Greater than a staple for shops
In the event you’re not too aware of Citizen, you would possibly assume it’s a manufacturing facility of low-cost quartz watches which might be scattered round malls worldwide. The model is much more than that and one of many largest, most influential watchmakers on the earth. In actual fact, it’s a conglomerate à la the Swatch Group or LVMH (watch division) with subsidiaries like Alpina, Arnold & Son, Frédérique Fixed, Bulova and La Joux-Perret. Citizen additionally based Miyota within the late Nineteen Fifties, which is among the many world’s largest motion producers. Established manufacturers and small microbrands alike depend on Miyota for dependable and reasonably priced calibers, a few of that are produced within the billions. There’s additionally a stable Swiss reference to La Joux-Perret, a luxurious motion producer that Citizen not solely owns, however now collaborates with for high-end items. La Joux-Perret purchasers embody Baume & Mercier, Corum, Montblanc, Frank Muller, Girard-Perregaux, Carl F. Bucherer and plenty of extra. Distinguished to say the least.
Like Seiko, Citizen has been very influential (and dare I say disruptive) to the business, pioneering quartz expertise throughout the “Quartz Disaster” of the Nineteen Seventies and Nineteen Eighties. Main improvements embody Eco-Drive, launched in 1995 and arguably the most effective, most effective light-powered watch actions ever created. In 2007, Citizen claimed to have stopped ten million watch batteries from going to waste in North America alone. In 2019, the Eco-Drive Caliber 0100 grew to become essentially the most correct motion on the earth at +/- 1 second per 12 months. Let’s put that into perspective – a mechanical COSC-certified chronometer is correct to -4/+6 seconds per day, whereas a typical quartz watch is correct to round 15 seconds monthly. It’s an astonishing achievement.
The Tsuyosa Computerized follows each “The Citizen” and extra accessible Citizen Collection 8 built-in sports activities watches to spherical out a mechanical portfolio for a lot of budgets. The chrome steel case may be very wearable at 40mm in diameter and 11.7mm thick, and the match and end is surprisingly good. There’s a mixture of brushed and polished surfaces, and the general look considerably resembles a Rolex Datejust. That’s largely as a result of cyclops lens over the date at 3 o’clock and I wouldn’t name this a duplicate. The crystal itself is sapphire, not mineral glass, though the latter is used for the exhibition case again.
The crown is positioned at 4 o’clock, which isn’t uncommon for Citizen (or Seiko) and it pushes nearly flush with the case. It seems to be modern, however a aspect impact of the design is it’s nearly inconceivable to manually wind. Pulling it to regulate the date and time can also be a bit tougher than it needs to be as there’s not a lot floor to seize. As soon as every thing is ready, nonetheless, it gained’t want a lot use. The case ends slope sharply to combine with the three-link metal bracelet, which may be very properly executed. It matches the case with brushed outer hyperlinks and polished heart hyperlinks, and secures by way of a deployant clasp with micro-adjustability. It’s very snug on the wrist, rivaling way more costly counterparts, and eradicating hyperlinks is easy in case you’re doing it your self. Water resistance is rated at 50 meters.
The dial has a black sunray-brushed end, however three different choices embody blue, inexperienced and yellow. There have been some very latest additions, nonetheless, together with a white dial, two-tone case/bracelet with a black dial and an all-black end with a black camouflage dial. I choose the black dial and metal case (as reviewed), however your mileage might range, in fact. The big utilized indices are very legible, backed up with Natulite inserts (Citizen’s proprietary lume). Apparently, there’s a double index at each 12 and 6 o’clock. The hour and minute arms even have Natulite and there’s a superb distinction between the black dial and silver parts. A date window sits at 3 o’clock and is once more magnified by a cyclops lens, which does an efficient job. It’s a good-looking watch on the wrist and will be worn for many events, and the Oyster Case vibe works in its favor.
That is an in-house watch by and thru, and that features the Caliber 8210 computerized. It’s designated particularly for Citizen watches, though much like Miyota actions just like the 8218 that outdoors manufacturers should purchase. Specs embody 21 jewels, a beat fee of 3Hz and a 40-hour energy reserve. The motion is entry-level for certain, however very dependable and sports activities a gold (coloured) end that pops by the exhibition case again. Occasional upkeep will hold it ticking for a lifetime.
We’re clearly not a Royal Oak right here, however that doesn’t diminish the truth that the Citizen Tsuyosa Computerized (ref. NJ0150-81E) may be very properly designed and completed, no matter worth. And that worth is round USD 300/EUR 299, relying on the place you purchase it. And that’s the one sticking level – it’s tough to search out. Thankfully, sourcing one on-line may be very doable, however put together to must import it in case you don’t stay in Singapore or Japan. I’ve but to search out one anyplace else, though different on-line retailers might have acquired some lately. However this minor impediment, the worth is unbelievable for such a bit. The end and general really feel on the wrist are higher than Seiko 5 fashions at comparable (or greater) costs, and it might simply be mistaken for a four-figure watch. Flash it quick and onlookers would possibly assume it’s a Rolex, which may very well be a bit deliberate for a subliminal impact, so to talk. There’s one factor for sure, you gained’t discover a extra mature, in-house built-in sports activities look ahead to much less.
Go to Citizen right here.