Initially created as a stopgap answer in 2020 to supply a stay watch occasion within the midst of the pandemic, Geneva Watch Days is developing for its third version and the MONOCHROME group is right here to cowl all of the novelties first-hand. One of many founding fathers of GWD is Bulgari and one of many Italian model’s novelties for 2022 is that this dazzling Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon, a seductive marriage of Haute Horlogerie and Haute Joaillerie dressed to the nines in diamonds and black spinels and fitted with the world’s smallest tourbillon motion.
Beautiful excessive jewelry watches are a trademark of the Italian model, and its mascot is the seductive Serpenti. Within the late Forties, Bulgari’s designers reworked a preferred excessive jewelry snake bracelet right into a watch, immortalised on the wrist of Liz Taylor whereas filming Cleopatra at Cinecittà Studios in Rome in 1962. Introduced out of hibernation after virtually 60 years, the Serpenti was fitted with a tourbillon complication in 2020. Given the minimal house and teardrop form of the snake’s head, Bulgari needed to develop a bespoke motion that’s at the moment the smallest of its type.
Glamorous black & White
The 34mm white gold case, dial and bracelet are utterly coated in brilliant-cut diamonds (~5 ct) with contrasting baguette-cut black spinels (~7 ct), giving the watch a glamorous Artwork Deco vibe. Bulgari’s longstanding custom of excessive jewelry creations will be appreciated within the suppleness of the bracelet and the dynamic gemsetting. The pavé diamond dial, for instance, supplies a scintillating background for the baguette-cut black spinel indices and divulges a big aperture at 6 o’clock for the tourbillon regulator. Additionally adorned with baguette-cut black spinels, the bezel frames the dial majestically. The teardrop-shaped case is absolutely set with brilliant-cut pavé diamonds and is barely pinched on the appropriate aspect to accommodate the winding crown, set with a black cabochon spinel. Emulating the scales of a snake, the supple hexagonal hyperlinks are additionally embellished with diamonds and black spinels.
The miniature manual-winding motion – calibre BVL150 – was designed to suit the bizarre drop-shaped contours of the Serpenti case. This isn’t a typical apply in watchmaking, the place instances are normally designed to accommodate the motion. A small sapphire crystal opening on the caseback on the stage of the tourbillon reveals the diminutive motion that’s rhodium-plated and hand-decorated with straight Côtes de Genève stripes, perlage and bevelling. The tourbillon is held in place with a sapphire bridge. Different variations embody the winding stem situated between 2 and three o’clock and the particular pavé setting of the diamonds to maintain the case as skinny as doable. The mechanical manual-winding motion beats at 21,600vph and presents 40 hours of autonomy for the hours, minutes and tourbillon features and has a thickness of simply 3.65mm.
The Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon (ref. 103465) retails for EUR 195,000. For extra info, please seek the advice of Bulgari.com.