Though many have been hoping that the demise of the Nautilus 5711 was only a advertising ploy – which it wasn’t – Patek Philippe had a few surprises up its sleeve, together with the brand new Annual Calendar Journey Time 5326G. And new on this context means model new, not only a new dial color/ending as within the case of the Chronograph 5172G or the Worldtimers. This extremely sensible mixture of an annual calendar with a GMT operate marks the primary time these two issues seem in a single watch at Patek Philippe. Powered by a motion protected by eight patents, the Annual Calendar Journey Time 5326G synchronises the date with the time zone chosen. Though long-time collectors of Patek watches may need been floored by its overtly classic vibe, uncommon granular dial, modular case development and extra informal presence, we fell in love with the watch. Firstly, for its spectacular degree of practicality and secondly, for its refreshing design, a transparent sign of the brand new route the model is taking with Thierry Stern on the helm.
Breath of contemporary air
The 2022 version of Watches and Wonders may need taken extra conservative Patek Philippe collectors aback for a number of causes. The information in regards to the discontinuation of the Nautilus was true in any case, and why, they may have requested, are there increasingly more vintage-inspired fashions showing in classical collections just like the Calatrava?
Steering a revered model like Patek Philippe on a brand new course is a frightening job that Thierry Stern took on after his father, Philippe, left the corporate’s route in 2009. Slowly however absolutely, Thierry Stern is respiration new life into the model’s collections. Who can overlook the turbulence surrounding the launch of the Calatrava Pilot Journey Time 5524 in 2015, the daring pilot’s watch from a model not related to the style with overt retro design cues? Or, in an much more radical transfer, his determination to discontinue the Nautilus in 2021 that despatched tidal waves throughout Lac Léman? With out forgetting the navy/classic Perpetual Calendar 5320 of 2017, which appeared once more this 12 months in a classic apparel with a stunning salmon dial.
Though the design language is much less classical and extra retro-oriented, we’re nonetheless speaking about Patek Philippe right here, and all the things exudes high quality. It’s clear that Thierry Stern is talking to a youthful technology of collectors who haven’t any qualms about carrying their watches, even minute repeaters, as a substitute of locking them up in a secure and gingerly taking them out for a couple of minutes of chiming motion. He’s additionally extra in tune with the tastes of a brand new technology of Patek Philippe purchasers who need one thing much less conservative, much less classical and extra sturdy and retro.
a brand new Calatrava case
The brand new 41mm polished white gold case with its chamfered bezel of the 5326G is spectacular. Its advanced structure, that includes a central module flanked by inclined pyramid-like lugs connected to the caseback, is not like something within the Calatrava assortment. The rationale for this development was to include the attractive Clous de Paris or hobnail guilloché sample that decorates your entire circumference of the caseband. This hobnail motif, composed of tiny shiny pyramids, didn’t seem out of the blue; it was used to embellish the bezel of the 1985 Calatrava 3919, a reference that outlined the gathering for over 20 years, however that’s now utilized in a special place on the case, for a extra dynamic outcome.
Classic dial with texture
Once more, the feel of the dial is not like something you may discover at Patek. The granular floor of the charcoal gray dial offers the watch its distinctive character. Made by Cadrans Flückiger in Saint-Imier, a dial specialist owned by Patek Philippe since 2004, the distinctive texture of the dial picks up on the bumpy floor discovered on previous cameras initially supposed for higher grip. The dial additionally has a stylish gradient impact because the gray color intensifies and barely darkens because it reaches the perimeter.
Just like the hour numerals used on the retro military-inspired Perpetual Calendar 5320G, the white gold utilized Arabic numerals are stuffed with beige luminous materials. The syringe-style palms with pointy ideas are additionally stuffed with beige lume, underscoring the classic temper of the watch. The beige color scheme extends to different particulars on the dial, just like the railway tracks for the minutes and small seconds, the inscriptions for Native and House night time/day indicators and the model identify at midday.
Weekdays and months are displayed in two horizontal rectangular home windows at midday, whereas the date is positioned within the decrease half of the moon part counter at 6 o’clock; all three indications with extremely legible white backgrounds and black inscriptions. The three calendar capabilities will be adjusted with small correctors within the caseband.
A 3rd openworked syringe hour hand with no lume is used to point residence time, though it isn’t accompanied by a 24-hour monitor. As an alternative, the 2 spherical apertures beneath the central axis are used to point night time/day for native and residential time; white represents day, blue is for night time. In a ultimate ode to classic watches, the dial is protected by a field sapphire crystal. Given the quantity of data relayed on the dial, it’s balanced, legible and remarkably uncluttered.
Tandem of sensible issues
Patek’s Annual Calendar is a full calendar with day/date/month that requires one handbook correction annually on 1 March. Launched in 1996, the revolutionary mechanism routinely distinguishes between months with 30 and 31 days. One 12 months later, Patek launched its Journey Time mechanism, indicating a second time zone with a second central hour hand. Now, in 2022, the Annual Calendar and Journey Time be part of forces in a single watch. Based mostly on the motion used contained in the In-Line Perpetual Calendar 5236 of 2021, the ensuing calibre 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H advantages from the 20% achieve in barrel torque, the elevated winding energy of the platinum micro-rotor, the frequency of 4Hz (28,800 semi-oscillations per hour), and a discount wheel that uncouples the automated winding when the watch is manually wound, which reduces put on.
Harnessing two issues is a difficult job. Aside from becoming them inside one case, they must work together in order that the displayed date corresponds to native time. To attain this, the Annual Calendar is managed by the Journey Time operate, utilizing the native time hour wheel to drive the calendar. Moreover, Patek’s engineers needed to modify the Annual Calendar mechanism to replicate the truth that in a standard annual calendar, the shows advance at round midnight and final about 90 minutes. This might end in a date misalignment if the time zone have been adjusted on this timeframe. To counter this drawback, the time of the show advance was shortened 5 instances to about 18 minutes. In all, eight patents have been filed to cowl the improvements developed to harness the 2 issues.
Person-friendly Operations through Crown
In a departure from the unique Journey Time mechanism that depends on two pushers on the left facet of the case (as seen on the Calatrava Pilot, the Aquanaut 5164A, or the Nautilus 5990A), the native time of the brand new ref. 5326G will be adjusted instantly through the crown. By pulling the crown to the center place, you may modify the native time hour hand in one-hour increments in both route with out affecting the precision charge of the motion. When the crown is totally extracted (third place), you may modify the house time. Moreover, there’s a stop-seconds mechanism to set the time with one-second accuracy, solely lively when the crown is in its outermost place. And, in case you aren’t about to embark on a visit, the second hour hand will be hidden behind the principle hour hand with the crown to appear to be one hand.
Calibre 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H
As talked about, the calibre is new however leans closely on the motion developed for the Perpetual Calendar 5236P. Wound by a platinum micro-rotor and operating at 4Hz, the ability reserve is on the brief facet starting from 38-48 hours. The again reveals a superbly executed calibre with a gorgeous cascade of finger bridges and the superlative finishings that you simply’d count on from Patek Philippe.
Including to the informal classic look, Patek Philippe has geared up the Annual Calendar Journey Time 5326G with two straps. One is a beige calfskin strap with a nubuck end (photographed right here), and the opposite is a black strap with beige stitching with an embossed material sample. In one more transfer that’s in tune with as we speak’s tendencies, the quick-release spring bars allow you to alternate the straps immediately.
Thierry Stern’s management is steering the model into extra up to date terrain, which in as we speak’s language means a return to retro. Clearly, this route isn’t at odds with Patek Philippe’s venerable standing, and all the things that points from the Maison is of the very best high quality. With out getting too tacky, maybe the model’s new inspirational phrase is likely to be Roy T. Bennett’s quote, “the previous is a spot of reference, not a spot of residence.”
The value of the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Journey Time 5326G is EUR 68,800. Extra particulars at Patek.com.