Tudor has introduced silver again onto the scene with its Black Bay Fifty Eight 925. How good is that this watch with the placing taupe dial? We discover out on this in-depth, hands-on evaluation.
Tudor is without doubt one of the few manufacturers whose desirability has elevated considerably lately. That is primarily as a result of attractiveness of its fashions, most actually together with the Black Bay and the smaller model, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, launched in 2018. The model we examined right here got here in the marketplace in 2021 in a silver case with a taupe-colored dial and bezel.
The identify Fifty-Eight refers to 1958, the yr wherein Tudor launched its first dive watch. French Navy divers turned to the model to develop a perfect dive watch, designed particularly for his or her wants, and Tudor consequently grew to become the clothes shop for French fight divers. The 39-mm case measurement is similar as its historic predecessor. The rotating bezel and smaller dial give the watch an understated look that’s according to present tendencies.
The classic look is heightened by a domed, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, which replaces the unique acrylic glass. The dial additionally has a slight retro-style curve. The slim lugs and the typography on the rotating bezel additionally cite Tudor’s historical past. Even the date was omitted for a extra traditionally correct impression. The normal “snowflake” fingers have been in use at Tudor for the reason that late Nineteen Sixties.
In distinction to earlier fashions, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 that was launched in 2021 has a taupe-colored bezel and dial. The colour, which is also considered as a pale black, goes effectively with the classic design. Whereas however, the gray-brown tone can also be a contemporary pattern coloration, particularly in present inside design.
A Secret Silver Alloy
The taupe coloration harmonizes effectively with the nice and cozy tones of the 925 silver case. The designation “925” means the case is product of 92.5 p.c silver and seven.5 p.c different supplies. Typical sterling silver additionally incorporates this quantity of pure silver with the remainder being primarily copper, which provides the steel a reddish hue. Nevertheless, sterling silver tends to tarnish, as anybody proudly owning sterling silver flatware can attest to. It’s the results of a chemical response between the silver and sulfur-containing substances within the air, darkening the silver over time. To stop this, Tudor has used a special alloy that’s touted as being non-tarnishing. Though Tudor has not revealed the opposite supplies, there are identified alloys containing palladium and germanium that forestall tarnishing and may even be hardened. This materials’s hardness continues to be extra corresponding to gold than to metal. The Tudor case shines with a brilliant luster and is hotter in coloration than chrome steel or platinum.
Whereas the aluminum scale on the diving bezel just isn’t as proof against scratches as a ceramic different, its matte floor goes higher with the watch’s classic look. All in all, our check watch impresses, with a horny design and really harmonious colours.
Fortunately, performance didn’t fall sufferer to design right here. Giant luminous markers and a beneficiant utility of luminous materials on the fingers present wonderful legibility each day and evening. The screw-down crown is straightforward to know; it decouples itself from the winding mechanism to scale back put on. The inclusion of a hack mechanism, plus no date show and no pulled-out crown place for that perform, make time setting easy. The unidirectional rotating bezel ratchets in one-minute increments and is straightforward to know and switch due to its coined edge. Its clicking operation feels nearly as wealthy as that of a Rolex timepiece. A luminous marker reveals dive time, even at midnight. Due to the case, which is waterproof to a depth of 200 meters, the Black Bay is actually appropriate for diving, no less than if you put on the NATO textile strap.
Our check watch got here with an attractively textured dark-brown leather-based strap with distinction stitching and a rubber lining, which extends the lifetime of the strap. A really well-constructed, sensible pin buckle is product of brushed silver, which matches the case. Visually, we favored the taupe textile strap with a silver central stripe higher than the leather-based strap as a result of it doesn’t taper towards the buckle as a lot. Nevertheless, the textile strap obscures the caseback, which is particularly unlucky right here since that is the primary Black Bay mannequin in common manufacturing with a clear window that allows a view of computerized Caliber MT5400. The caliber is produced by the motion producer Kenissi, which can also be a provider to Chanel, Breitling, Fortis, and different watch manufacturers.
A Strong Caliber
The motion boasts each sturdiness and precision. Its appreciable peak of 4.99 mm makes it strong to keep away from useful disturbances, even within the case of the smallest tolerance fluctuations which will have occurred in manufacturing. As well as, the steadiness is secured by a full bridge moderately than on only one facet. The silicon hairspring maintains centricity, as it’s proof against deformation attributable to influence or different disturbances. Different high-quality options of this in-house motion embrace the prolonged 70-hour energy reserve and free-sprung steadiness wheel with 4 regulating screws — so the speed just isn’t adjusted by altering the lively size of the hairspring, as is normally the case with most ETA calibers. Decorations to the motion are modest however the rotor is skeletonized and has a sunburst end and a Tudor engraving.
Price precision is licensed by COSC, the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute, the place Tudor sends a majority of its actions to be checked (the MT5602-1U used within the new Black Bay Ceramic comes with a Grasp Chronometer certificates from METAS). Along with different standards, the speed outcomes are assured to stay inside a variety of -4 and +6 seconds per day. Outcomes proven on the digital timing machine verify this degree of accuracy: the values in several positions stay fairly shut, whereas the typical deviation was nearly good: solely +1 second per day. On the wrist, we noticed a achieve of two seconds per day, which was probably attributable to the truth that the watch was positioned “dial-up” in a single day, the place that confirmed the best achieve of +5 seconds.
The technical options of the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 put it on the leading edge, and its execution and ending make it a standout. The design mixture of retro components and heat grey tones is aware of the best way to encourage, and the extra price of $950 above the bottom value for the silver model feels average and acceptable.
Producer: Tudor, Rue François-Dussaud 3-5, 1211 Geneva 26, Switzerland
Reference quantity: M79010SG-0001
Features: Hours, minutes, seconds
Motion: Caliber MT5400, computerized, COSC-certified chronometer, 28,800 vph, 27 jewels, stop- seconds mechanism, silicon hairspring, free-sprung steadiness with 4 regulating screws, Incabloc shock absorber, 70-hour energy reserve, diameter = 26 mm, peak = 4.99 mm
Case: 925 silver, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on either side, screw-down crown, threaded caseback with sapphire crystal viewing window; water-resistant to 200 meters
Strap and clasp: Calfskin strap with rubber lining and silver pin buckle
Price outcomes (deviations in seconds per 24 hours):
Dial up +5
Dial down +1
Crown up +1
Crown down −1
Crown left −1
Crown proper +1
Biggest deviation 6
Common deviation +1
Flat positions 291°
Hanging positions 255°
Dimensions: Diameter = 39 mm, peak = 12 mm, weight = 90 grams
Variations: With textile strap (Ref. M79010SG-0002, $4,300)
Strap and clasp (max. 10 factors): The calfskin strap with rubber lining is effectively made, as is the sensible silver pin buckle. 8
Case (10): Wonderful ending of the case product of a particular silver alloy 8
Dial and fingers (10): Domed dial, utilized markers and cleanly polished fingers give the watch a high-quality general impression. 9
Design (15): A horny retro design with well-matched heat grey tones 14
Legibility (5): The beneficiant utility of luminous materials on the shows and the excessive distinction between the fingers and the dial make for wonderful legibility, each day and evening. 5
Operation (5): The screw-down crown is straightforward to make use of, a stop-seconds mechanism facilitates correct time setting, and the grooved rotating bezel turns simply. 5
Sporting consolation (5): The watch sits comfortably on the wrist with a supple leather-based strap 5
Motion (20): The motion is robustly constructed and has an extended energy reserve. Decorations are modest. 15
Price outcomes (10): Low common deviation and no excessively excessive beat error within the numerous positions. 8
Total worth (10): Average further price for a silver case at an acceptable value; good general worth 8
Complete: 85 POINTS
This text initially appeared within the September-October 2021 problem of WatchTime.