Rolex revised its Submariner assortment in 2020 and unleashed a rare demand for its Oyster mannequin with a inexperienced bezel. Our check from the WatchTime Archives seems at this latest version, with its modified case and new motion, to see if it lives as much as the hype.
Spend any time in any respect at a Rolex vendor and somebody will are available and ask for the brand new Submariner with a inexperienced bezel — to no avail. Demand exceeds the provision many occasions over, intensifying the hype round this mannequin. And this in flip is mirrored within the costs set by merchants. The inexperienced Submariner has overtaken the Daytona and the GMT-Grasp II “Pepsi” as essentially the most sought-after Rolex mannequin. That is no synthetic scarcity. Rolex merely can not construct sufficient watches to fulfill all of the potential clients — true not just for metal variations but in addition for the steel-and-gold and all-gold variants as properly.
However why is the hype across the inexperienced model by far the best, regardless that each Submariner mannequin has been up to date? For one, it’s the solely metal model that’s visibly completely different from its predecessors. The “Hulk,” which it replaces, has a inexperienced sunburst dial along with the inexperienced bezel. The dial of the brand new mannequin is black. Rolex has revived a coloration mixture that preceded the Hulk, which existed from 2003 to 2010 and was identified by the nickname “Kermit,” which had a black dial and inexperienced aluminum bezel inlay. A second purpose is that these two inexperienced fashions had been already far more standard than their black counterparts within the Submariner assortment. Apparently, Rolex has additionally returned to the sooner, extra elegant case form seen with the Kermit. The “Maxi” case with its broad lugs and huge crown guard was launched with the launch of the ceramic bezel.
Initially, the size have been a supply of some confusion. The brand new Rolex mannequin specs present a bigger case, at 41 mm slightly than 40. However when the 2 fashions are positioned aspect by aspect, the brand new watch virtually seems smaller. Actually, the Oyster case has grown solely minimally, from 40.3 mm to 40.8 mm. A lot smaller lugs, nonetheless, make it extra streamlined than its predecessor. The Oyster bracelet now measures 21 mm between the lugs, slightly than 20 mm, and the clasp can be 1 mm wider.
All in all, and with out direct comparability, the variations are hardly noticeable aside from the extra delicate lugs. Apart from barely broader fingers, the dial has undergone only a few modifications, except it’s the Submariner LV, like our check watch a nod to the reference quantity 126610LV, which stands for lunette verte (inexperienced bezel). The shiny black dial on the usual mannequin stands in distinction to the inexperienced sunburst end on the dial of its predecessor. Which is a greater match? That continues to be a matter of style. The Hulk was clearly an extrovert, whereas the brand new model has a extra modest character and appears extra like a software watch. The colour of the ceramic bezel stays the identical whereas the older Kermit watch is markedly completely different on account of its darker aluminum observe.
Completely different Caliber
Additionally new is the small crown on the dial between the phrases “Swiss made,” which stands, as we’ve seen with different Rolex fashions, for the newer Caliber 3235. Rolex altered greater than 90 % of the elements of its 3135 caliber and was awarded 14 patents associated to its improvement. Particularly, shock absorption and reliability have been improved. Winding is extra environment friendly and builds up an influence reserve extra rapidly, thanks partly to the brand new ball bearing rotor. Now some folks might be able to hear the rotor, which was once silent.
An important issue for the wearer is the elevated energy reserve, from 48 hours to 70 hours. Rolex achieved this improve with a thinner barrel wall, which allows the usage of an extended mainspring, in addition to via the revolutionary Chronergy escapement, which will increase the effectivity of the Swiss lever escapement by 15 %. That is made attainable by the modified geometry and skeletonized type, which reduces its weight. The nickel-phosphorous alloy escape wheel, made utilizing the LIGA course of (UV lithography, electroforming, molding), is unaffected by magnetic fields and the brand new steadiness workers additionally improves antimagnetic properties. The blue Parachrom hairspring manufactured from niobium-zirconium alloy has already been utilized in different fashions, as has the Paraflex shock absorber. Finish shake within the steadiness may be adjusted with a screw, and the Breguet overcoil on the hairspring ensures the fixed motion of the hairspring, in addition to the free-sprung tremendous regulation utilizing the Microstella nuts on the within of the steadiness wheel.
Though the brand new caliber, as all the time with the Oyster fashions, operates beneath a metal caseback, it’s adorned with a sunburst end on the cutout rotor and on the automated bridge, a line end on metal elements, some beveled edges and polished screw heads.
Rolex set strict regulating specs in 2015 with the purpose of giving new life to the phrases “Superlative Chronometer.” This designation first appeared on the dial within the late Nineteen Fifties when Rolex fashions ran much more precisely than was essential to earn a chronometer certificates. (Chronometer companies later discontinued this highest class.) Along with the chronometer certificates from the unbiased Swiss testing company COSC, which checks the motion, Rolex watchmakers modify the cased motion to much more strict values of between -2 and +2 seconds per day.
Our check watch didn’t fairly obtain these values on our Witschi timing machine. It was measured in each place and confirmed a median price of -2.3 seconds per day. The speed at particular person positions remained shut, nonetheless, between -1 and -4 seconds per day.
68 Years Previous, however Nonetheless Trendy
There was actually no want to enhance the overall design. Though the watch was first designed in 1953, and has undergone solely minimal modifications over time, the Submariner design continues to look each strong and fashionable. It actually doesn’t look its age. That is due primarily to the sleek, reflective ceramic bezel, the shiny black dial and the flat reflective sapphire crystal. They offer the Submariner the magnificence that makes it attainable to put on this watch as simply with a swimsuit as with a T-shirt and denims.
Sadly, these options — particularly the flat, reflective crystal — have an effect on legibility, which is in any other case wonderful, additionally as a result of antiglare coating on the crystal’s internal aspect. Due to the magnifying Cyclops lens, the date can solely be learn from the entrance. However the excessive magnification of the lens permits many far-sighted folks to see the date with out sporting their glasses.
Because of its skinny top of solely 12 mm, the Submariner has a slim and chic look. It continues to supply a enough water resistance of 300 meters for divers. The Triplock crown has 5 gaskets to maintain out moisture, and the case and bracelet are manufactured from the corrosion-resistant 904L stainless-steel that Rolex calls “Oystersteel.”
One other spotlight of the Submariner is the simply turning bezel with its rich-sounding clicks in half-minute increments. Onerous ceramic ensures a scratch-free floor. Recessed numerals and markers within the ceramic ring have a skinny platinum coating. This goes properly with the high-quality curved white-gold fingers and utilized markers.
Brilliant Luminous Materials
Legibility is one other good characteristic. Rolex’s personal “Chromalight” luminous glows brightly. Its cool blue coloration may be simply seen in dim mild and is straightforward on the eyes. The luminescent triangle at 12 o’clock and bar-shaped markers at 6 and 9 o’clock present clear orientation. The zero level on the bezel additionally glows brightly and the second hand has a luminous dot to supply a perform examine.
The graceful caseback, clear internal floor of the clasp and supple really feel of the metal bracelet all contribute to observe’s sporting consolation. The person hyperlinks of the bracelet are curved to suit the form of the wrist. Areas between the hyperlinks stay fixed, even when the bracelet is bent, which prevents pinching or pulling hairs.
The security bar and easy-to-open lever beneath forestall unintentional opening of the bracelet. The clasp, crown and bezel are all straightforward to understand and use. The standard of workmanship and ending are spectacular right here and for your entire watch as a complete. The edges of the bracelet, clasp and case are polished whereas higher surfaces are brushed.
It speaks properly for a watch when solely its predecessor reveals what may be improved upon. The proportions are actually extra harmonious — the broader bracelet and slimmer lugs give the watch a extra elegant look and proceed within the Submariner custom. The brand new motion is spectacular with its substantial energy reserve, regardless that the speed outcomes don’t fairly align with strict requirements. Sporting consolation, legibility, operation and execution are all consistent with the Rolex benchmark. Even the value is suitable. So the hype is justified: Rolex has constructed the perfect Submariner ever. The one factor left to want for is which you could get one.
Producer: Rolex SA, Rue François-Dussaud 3-7, 1211 Geneva, Switzerland
Reference quantity: 126610LV
Capabilities: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Motion: In-house Caliber 3235, computerized, chronometer, 28,800 vph, 31 jewels, hack mechanism, quick-adjust date, Paraflex shock absorber, Glucydur steadiness with regulating screws, Parachrom hairspring with Breguet overcoil, Chronergy escapement, 70-hour energy reserve, diameter = 28.5 mm, top = 5.37 mm
Case: Chrome steel, unidirectional rotating bezel with ceramic observe, flat sapphire crystal with antiglare coating on then internal aspect and Cyclops date lens, screw-down crown, threaded stainless-steel caseback; water-resistant to 300 m
Bracelet and clasp: Stainless-steel bracelet, security folding clasp with incremental extension piece
Price outcomes (deviation in seconds per 24 hours):
Dial up -1
Dial down -2
Crown up -3
Crown down -2
Crown left -2
Crown proper -4
Biggest deviation 3
Common deviation -2.3
Flat positions 287°
Hanging positions 246°
Dimensions: Diameter = 40.8 mm, lug width = 21 mm, top = 12 mm, weight = 151 grams
Bracelet and clasp (max. 10 factors): Beautifully completed metal bracelet, safe clasp with incremental extension piece 9
Operation (5): Fast date adjustment and hack mechanism features on screw- down crown make setting and operation straightforward. Crisp operation of engaging rotating bezel 5
Case (10): Wonderful ending on well-made saltwater-resistant case and scratch-resistant bezel 9
Design (15): The Submariner has a fantastically designed new case; the mixture of black and inexperienced provides this software watch an elegant look. 14
Legibility (5): Excellent legibility because of excessive distinction and beneficiant quantity of luminous materials 5
Sporting consolation (10): Simply as comfy as its smaller predecessor. The metal bracelet is completely formed. 10
Motion (20): Effectively-designed in-house motion with free-sprung Rolex hairspring and lengthy energy reserve 19
Price outcomes (10): Slight fall into the adverse vary however the values stay shut. 7
Total worth (15): Appropriately priced and an infinite improve within the worth of this watch — if you may get one 14
Whole: 92 POINTS
This text initially appeared within the June 2021 subject of WatchTime.